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Instructions for Drafting Your Own
Sleeves
Remember to click the pictures for a larger view
Part 1
- Measure your arm from your shoulder, down around the elbow to
wrist. Draw a line that length, plus seam allowance at both ends, on
paper. I use paper on a roll that I found at Office Depot that is 24
inches wide. Before I found that, I glued sheets of copy paper together
for the right size.
-
 Add
another five inches to the top. This is the end where the sleeve will
attach to the bodice.
- At the five inch mark, draw temporary guide line perpendicular to
the sleeve length, like a cross.
- If you are making this sleeve for a garment with set-in sleeves,
measure the garment or the pattern, around the armhole and add seam
allowance. If you're doing a bodice, like I do, make a loop around your
arm out of the tape measure and pull it up over your shoulder, like the
top of a sleeve. Arrange it on your shoulder exactly the way you want
the sleeve to fit and see how many inches is comfortable (it should be
snug, but not tight).
Divide the armhole measurement in half. Use a yardstick to draw a line
that length from the top of the sleeve to the left arm of the cross.
- Do the same thing on the right side. This will form a wide,
squatty triangle.
- Measure loosely around your hand. This will be for the cuff of
the sleeve. Don't make it too tight, or you'll have trouble slipping it
on. Using that measurement, plus seam allowance, draw a horizontal line
across the bottom of your cross.
- Using a yardstick, draw a line connecting the left corner of the
triangle with the left edge of the cuff line. Do the same on the right.
Part 2
This part can be confusing. I've colorized left and
right, to make things a little clearer.
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Divide the triangle into three equal horizontal
sections.
-
On the left side, upper
line, measure out from the edge of the triangle
3/4 inches and mark with a dot.
-
 On
the right side, upper line, measure out
from the edge 3/4 inches and mark with
another dot.
-
On the left side, lower
line, measure in from the edge of the triangle 1/4
inches and mark.
-
On the right side, lower
line, measure in from the edge 1/2 inches
and mark.
-
Draw a curving line from the first
dot, up over the top of the sleeve, and
back down to the dot on the right side.
-
Continue down through the lower
dot, and around to the bottom corner of the triangle. Do the same
on the other side (see picture). The left
side of the sleeve is the back, the right
is the front. You may wish to mark this on the pattern, and when you cut
the sleeves, use chalk or disappearing pen to mark front and back on
wrong side of fabric.
This pattern has worked very well for me, but it may not
work for everyone. Test it on scrap fabric first, before using it in
your final project.
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