Chemise or Smock
After trying many different methods, and having many failures, I mixed several patterns and came away with a method for a chemise that's actually comfortable to wear. It's probably not period construction, but until I find a period method that is actually wearable, this does the job. These instructions are rather brief, and assume you have sewing experience.
For fabric, I like to haunt the bedding department of my local thrift store. They seem to get a lot of sheets, and since I need practice fabric, old used bed sheets work just fine. Once I found a huge roll of white sheets, duct-taped into a bundle. It was around five dollars for the whole thing, and I took the risk and purchased it. I believe they are from a hotel, but still in good shape. Some were torn, and some were stained, but I just use those for "practice" projects.
If sheets don't sound good (and I can understand that), there's lots of
nice, lightweight white fabric at most fabric stores. Also, a lot of
people recommend using linen, which would be period. I personally haven't
tried this, but linen is fairly inexpensive if purchased online.
Fabric-Store.com is one of the
more popular sources of linen. Anyhow, for this chemise, I laid out a large sheet and folded it over lengthwise, slightly more than half the width of the hem. Then I folded it in half the other way. See picture. At the top, where the fabric folds over, make a mark with chalk or disappearing marker. This is where the shoulder line would be, and will be needed when drawing the neckline.
Make one more mark. This is the hem. I make my skirts as long as possible, though if you're using a sheet, the length is going to be limited. Mine tend to fall between mid-calf and ankle (I'm 5'4) which is long enough for me. Mark the width of the hem, divided by four. To save on hemming, curve up from the fold to the hem mark (the line from waist to the hem, on the fold, should be the same length as the line slanting outward). Using a disappearing marker or chalk, draw a smooth, bottom-heavy curve from the shoulder mark to the bust mark. Then, if you included a waist measurement, draw straight down to the waist before slanting out to the hem mark. Once it's cut out, mark the neckline. Draw a square or rectangle that is two or three inches on one side of the shoulder line, and seven to nine inches on the other (depending on how low you want the front) and nine or ten inches wide. I started with a nine inch square (see my 12th Night chemise), but expanded the neckline for my blue gown, making it both wider and deeper. I would suggest doing the nine-inch-square on your first chemise, and then you'll have a better idea what size you want for the next outfit. Interfacing is the easiest way to finish the square neckline. Cut out a piece of fabric that is the same size as the neckline, plus 1 1/2 inches on all four sides. Center it over the neckline, right sides together, and pin. Stitch along neckline. Cut out the center, leaving half inch seam allowance. Clip inner corners. Turn interfacing to the inside, turn edges and stitch. Cut out sleeves. Hem cuffs. Sew sleeves to body of chemise, right sides together. Pin and stitch chemise, right sides together, from cuff, up under the arm, and down to the hem on both sides. Turn right side out and hem bottom. |
