Undergarments

The first thing to make were the undergarments. I thought that was a really boring place to start, but everyone said it was mandatory, and yes, unfortunately, it makes sense. So I began working, from the inside out.

The most difficult, believe it or not, was making the chemise, or smock. I found all sorts of patterns on the web, but finally resorted to combining a couple different patterns. I used the Elizabethan Costuming site and a chemise pattern from Dawns Costume Guide. I had already tried making a smock freehand, with disastrous results, so I was nervous trying again. It worked, but I can't say it's comfortable under my dress. It's always pulling up and standing out around the neckline. It wrinkles in the wrong places, and makes it very difficult to slip into a corset or anything else because of all the friction. I wonder if silk or linen would solve this problem? The fibers are longer than cotton, and maybe they'd slide easier.

Anyway, I made this one from a king sized cotton sheet from a thrift store. The material is soft and fine, and though I realize cotton may not be authentic, this material is pretty and the price was right ($1.40 at the Salvation Army Thrift Store).

The sleeves are longer than the body of the garment, so it looks very odd on the hanger. The extra fullness is used for "puffs" on the false sleeves. I don't think I'd do it this way again, however. It would be a thousand times easier to just "fake" the puffs. The ruffles on the sleeves are from Simplicity pattern #9256 - the same one I used for the skirt, and actually was my first "costume" pattern. Unfortunately, this pattern is no longer available, but I'm sure there are others with similar blouse patterns.

I must admit, I was pretty discouraged after this project. But later, after the whole outfit was finished, I was chatting with some Elizabethan costuming laurels, and confided my frustration. They chuckled and explained that this is not an uncommon complaint. THEY don't like making shifts, either, and laughingly admitted how they put off making new ones until the old ones completely fall apart. It was comforting to know that this seemingly simple garment is a headache even to more seasoned tailors.

Next, the corset. This was also made from an old cotton bed sheet. It's completely hand sewn, using the pattern drafting guides on The Renaissance Tailor's site. Even the eyelet holes are hand bound. The Renaissance Tailor recommended using an awl for making the holes, but my little leather awl didn't have a wide enough shaft. I tried using all sorts of objects, the most successful being a sharpened pencil. The only problem was, the wood was too soft and the lead tended to get all over the fabric. Finally, I lighted on a crazy but workable solution. I sharpened the point of a wooden chopstick in the pencil sharpener. Don't laugh... it works great. I started the holes with the sharp leather awl, then used the sharpened chopstick to widen and expand the eyelets.

For interfacing in the corset, I used $1 a yard fabric from Walmart, a sturdy, pink and orange striped denim. Then I boned it with thick plastic cable ties from Home Depot. The ingenious plastic cable tie idea came from The Elizabethan Lady.

They work very nicely, but are fairly flexible. I'm thinking about taking one of my extra yardsticks, cutting it up, and using it as a busk for extra flatness. Could work... hmm

 

The Farthingale was the most time consuming garment to make. It wasn't exactly cheap, either. The 24 yards of steel hoop boning had to be special ordered from Greenberg and Hammer in New York, and including postage and boning tips, cost about $30.00. The fabric was $1 a yard, again, from Walmart. It's a type of ripstop, I believe. It isn't period, by any stretch of the imagination, but it's a beautiful color, and I like the way it rustles. Also, it doesn't get dirty easily, and can handle a lot of abuse.

 

The pattern I used for the farthingale and bum roll was from Simplicity (pattern #8881), and I must admit, I was delighted with the results. Also, I had made several bum rolls in the past, but this one has the nicest shape. It's worn under the farthingale, giving a smoother profile.

It's tempting to cheat on the hoop steel and use fewer rows - I've seen people with as few as three. But lemme me tell you, this is not a good idea. I was curious, and after sewing all the channels in the farthingale, I tried only wiring three and even four. It worked, but made a terrible profile. Not only did it hang strangely, the rings of wire stuck out and showed through the the skirts - If you're ever at a large event where ladies are wearing hoops, you'll probably see this look. Not attractive.

So if you decide to make one of these, go ahead and use all the wire. It makes for a very nice, smooth profile, and you'll feel better, knowing your farthingale can easily handle all the weighty skirts you're going to pile over it.

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